Last Sunday...

We headed out to the beach first thing - as we had to be in Beaulieu at 2:45pm to meet Leah.

We headed back to Morne Rouge - and relaxed in one of our favorite spots. Stanley even had a chance to work on his tan - although he forgot his swimsuit - and there is no nude bathing in Grenada - so we found him a leaf!

Later we headed to Beaulieu and on to Happy Hill, where we attended a community gathering celebrating the beginning of  an initiative between the Royal Grenada Police and the residents of Happy Hill. It was well organized and featured some young singers and the Royal Grenada Police Band - and finished off with some local sweets and other snacks.

It was really fun - and we had an opportunity to meet several residents of Happy Hill, as well as some of the invited guests. The former Prime Minister even dropped in!

Then it was time to head back to our apartment and do a little packing so we didn't have so much to do on Monday.

New friends - Jeanne and Everest Pascal and Leah's Grandma, Miss Yvonne.

Can't believe our time is almost up - it has gone so fast. Tomorrow is our last beach day - and last chance to snap some photos.

There is a golf course....

For a all the golfers out there, we decided that before we left, we better check out the golf course. It is located in St.George's - but not in plain site. We found the road - and after a few minutes, arrived at the golf course.

It was a bit soggy due to the large amount of rain that fell the last few days - but I have to say I was pleasantly surprised.

There are no power carts, which is fine  - as you come into the parking lot, there is a small lean-to, and out of it sprung 5 young men, all offering to be our caddy. And it is only a 9-hole, so it wouldn’t be too bad.

If you want to play 18 – you just play it twice – like the Royal York! There is a nice clubhouse and a great view from their deck. If you decide you want to play though, you might want to book and early tee time – it was already pretty muggy there at 11am.

After checking out the course, we headed up the road towards the Grenada Craft Village. It is a great idea – much like a Farmers’ Market, but a building with small spaces inside for artisans to display theirproducts. It is a good idea, as several of the artisans are from other parts of Grenada.  Their shops were set up very nicely, and there were several that we hadn’t seen yet – they aren’t set up where the cruise ship passengers usually are. There was a potter, soap and oils, spices for cooking, painters – and a great seamstress.  She is Grenadian, but spend several years in London -  she had beautiful summer skirts, tops and dresses – all cotton and linen – if you go as soon as you arrive, she will make whatever you see to your size before you leave. She even had a wedding dress – and as much as you might not think so – it was beautiful – and the bodice was made of coconut fibers!

From there, we took a drive to Happy Hill – we heard from a Calgary family about a great snorkeling place – and we wanted to check it out. It was nice – black sand, calm waters – and in a protected area. Maybe we will try it out on Monday.

One of the commercial complexes on the way into St.Georges from Happy Hill

On the way back, we taped the drive through St.Georges and the drive out to the airport so that you can have a look when we come home.  We had to check on the parking etc. for the beginning of our flight home on Tuesday. You might find it interesting – it will give you an idea of what we see most days. We have done a couple of videos to show you all when we get home!

After checking out the airport, we came back to the apartment for a short break before heading up to Victoria for the St.Mark’s Sunset City Food Festival – which happens the last Saturday of the month. Unfortunately, when we arrived, they had delayed the set up due to the rainstorm – and it was still pouring rain when we got there. But we talked to several people and had a look at their menu boards. Reasonably priced – and not just fish – there was beef, pork, chicken, fish, goat, rabbit, vegie choices – plus desserts. I was finally able to try conkie, which is a dessert made of pumpkin, spices, coconut and corn – it was really good.

We said our goodbyes and headed back down Island. Barry thought it was quite the adventure – there were some rock and mudslides on the road due to the downpour – so he had to dodge those obstacles as well as the buses!

Heading to the beach tomorrow – and then back to Happy Hill. We have been invited to a community event – it should be fun!

Kayaking 101... & a trip to Hog Island

Today we kayaked for the first time - we booked a 4 hour tour with Spice Kayaking located in Clarke Court, just around the corner from us.

We were looking forward to it - and our experience with Kim & Joe - made it more than we thought it would be. They are from South Africa via London, and have only been living here for 4 months, but had so many great hints to give us that we need to stay another month to enjoy it all.

They know a lot about Grenada, and after giving us a crash course in Kayaking, took us out in the bay and gave us a tour of the coast.

We saw two more shipwrecks - both Cuba ships that were originally here to bring in supplies to build the airport at Point Salinas, but once the 1983 Revolution began, they were rumored to be carrying munitions to aid the rebels. When the US stepped in, they sunk the two ships. The most interesting part of the story wasn't so much the rebellion, but that these ships were made from concrete.

We continued along the coast, looking at the mangroves and learning about their part in keeping the coastline clean - they do a lot of work - and when Mother Nature is left alone - they keep the coastline water crystal clear. It was beautiful.

We then headed to Hog Island - where there is a great beach and the famous 'Roger's Bar'. There were only 6 of us on the island when we arrived - it is a popular place for locals and 'yachties' to gather on the weekend - Sunday there is live music - and lots of fun. There is a beautiful sandy beach and on the south side of the Island, some decent snorkelling.

We had lunch on Hog Island - Kim makes homemade grainy bread - and put together delicious sandwiches - and having lived in London, no wussy French's mustard on our ham sandwiches - just a lovely hot English mustard! Cookies, watermelon, coke and rum punch rounded out the menu.

While there, a catamaran arrived, as did a water taxi. The catamaran brought about 17 people from a cruise ship for a 'Lobster and Champagne Lunch' where a local prepared fresh lobster on the grill. The water taxi brought a family, who we soon discovered were from Sylvan Lake Alberta. They are here for 2 months - and they have come for the last 5 years with their 4 children. There were also 5 boats flying the Maple Leaf - Joe and Kim started calling it 'Canada Bay'. They were saying there is a couple from Newfoundland who have been here for several months - she is quite popular at the marina potlucks as she makes chocolate cake on their boat to bring to the weekly Saturday night potlucks! We Canadians do like our desserts!

After lunch, and some more socializing, we headed out in the kayaks again - this time, the water was a bit choppy, but we managed just fine and arrived back at the Marina safe and sound. We really liked the 'sit on top' kayaks - and it was great to try kayaking in a protected bay - and several times it was shallow enough to see through the clear water to the bottom - which was reassuring too!

We will be kayaking again - not quite sure where or when - but we will be!

St.David's Point and the Megrin Standing Stone

Today we again travelled up the east side of Grenada - heading towards Grenville for a walk about.

On the way, we found the turn off to St.David's Point (which we had looked for on a previous trip) and the location of Megrin - so decided to check it out.

Megrin is the location of the first European settlers on Grenada. It was a short stay the first time as the settlers found themselves under constant attack by the Kalinago people.

Four Englishmen: Geoffrey, Hall, Lull and Robinson, along with 199 fellow travellers arrived on Grenada via three ships headed to South America. They stayed for a year, until the indigenous Kalinago tribe finally succeeded in driving the residents off the island. They caught the first ship that stopped to see how they were doing - and left Grenada.

Today, the location is marked by a large standing rock and the remains of a lookout of some sort.

Even though this is a historic site, development of the point is occuring, and there are some beautiful homes along the road out to the point. We drove a bit, then walked the rest of the way - as close to the end as possible. It was a great viewpoint, and it was amazing to see how the waves were carving away the point.

There are many spots like this in Grenada - something that contributes to the growing number of visitors every year! And who knew - we even saw the elusive Grenada Dove at the point - something else we had been looking for!

 
We did end up in Grenville for a quick walking tour - and while there, saw the daily inspection of the Royal Grenada Police Force - Grenville detachment. They did drill and were inspected - before being dismissed. Interesting that the women officers have to wear knee high socks and skirts - no pants or nylons.


From Grenville, we headed back up Island - tomorrow we are kayaking for the first time - a 4 hour tour of the bays and small islands at the south of Grenada. Hopefully the rain holds off!

What to do on a rainy day...

Even if it is not hot and sunny, it is still hot - and the rainshowers are mostly off and on - so you can still do lots of other things.

We decided to tour a nutmeg processing plant and return to Belmont Plantation as it was a day for the farmers to bring in their cocoa beans.

We visited the nutmeg processing plant in Gouyave, which is the only plant doing processing from start to finish since Hurricanes Ivan and Emily. 90% of the nutmeg trees were uprooted during the hurricane, and it takes 7 - 10 years for new trees to bear fruit.  This has hit farmers very hard, as many families relied entirely on the nutmeg.

On our way to Gouyave, we stopped at Dugaldston Estate and saw the nutmeg trees before stopping in Gouyave.

We saw how the nutmegs are brought in, put in drying trays, raked to ensure even drying, crushed, hulled and sorted before being sold, exported or taken up Island for oil to be extracted.

 

There is no machinery - nutmeg is processed pretty much the way it has been for over 100 years. We watched local women sorting the nutmeg after it is crushed - which is very labor intensive. They make $34 EC for a 7 hour shift - which is about $12 CAD.

We also saw bags of mace, although many farmers remove the mace before they bring the nutmeg in for processing. It is a beautiful bright red before being dried.

We then had a traditional Grenadian lunch at Kelly's Hot Spot in Gouyave. Barry was a good sport and tried it all, including the provisions and despite it looking like it was curried chicken (it wasn't:)) He didn't enjoy it all - but he did try it!

After lunch, a stop at Belmont to see the farmers bringing in their cocoa beans, we headed down Island - and stopped at Conference Beach for walk. Despite the weather it was very pretty - and we found lots of coral and shells.

A Walking Tour of St. George's

It was supposed to be Barry's turn to blog - but he's making breakfast - including his fried potatoes (the best ever!) - so I'm blogging again. That's okay - he can blog our adventures from today:)

It was looking like it was going to be cooler yesterday - only 30C - and overcast - so we decided it would be a good day for another walkabout.

We took a new route into town - and parked by the Fire Department & Central Police Station (the pink building from an earlier post). From there we headed around the Carenage, stopping at a few 'bits stores' (pretty much a corner store with a 'bit' of everything). We are surprised at these little stores and the snackettes/bars at the number of beverages they stock - one place I counted 53 different bottles - from fruit juice to coke products to beer/coolers. And some stores are only about 10 x 10!

We stopped to sit for a bit at the top of the Carenage - and just watch people. There is one interesting guy who has built a small raft from pallets on top of recycled styrofoam - and cruises around the bay in it. He has all types of interesting stuff on his raft - including a Grenadian flag and a monkey puppet (??!!??) - and a sign that says 'pictures $1 US'. I will have to take a picture next time we are there.

We carried on around the Carenage and then headed up some side streets to check out the shops. Found some great artisan shops - batiks, carvings, jewellery, paintings - great traditional art too! And not much was made off island - a nice change from the 'made in china' souvenirs!

We also walked back to the cruise ship terminal and sat on the bay and watched the ships. The terminal is located beside the central bus terminal - so we watched the organized chaos of buses during the busiest time in the afternoon.

After that, we headed back to the Central Police Station - where we were meeting Leah. While waiting for her, Barry had a chance to talk to an immigration officer - which was very interesting - he told us lots about the ferry system and the RG Police. Leah finally got in from her shift and we chatted with her and met some co-workers. Leah had made us some Sorrel juice - and gave it to us to take home. Not sure if we can actually take it home - but we will be trying it in Grenada for sure.

It was getting late, so we headed over to the Ocean Grill for supper - I tried the 'crabback' again. It is an interesting dish - they use 'lcrumbs - and put it back into the shells to heat it up. We see these crabs all over - they dig holes in the sand - and some people even race them!

The view was great. It was right on the water - so much that when the waves hit the deck, some actually came up between the deck boards under the tables!

And then - back to Woburn - and plan for tomorrow!

Another Circle Tour!

One thing we have discovered about Grenada is that you can't really get lost - there are dead end roads - but for the most part, all roads eventually lead you back to where you started!

Today, we decided to tour the St.Paul area and the roads from the interior to the east coast. First stop, Fort Fredrick & Fort Matthew. These were built after Fort George, and were build beginning about 1790 - and built by the French and the English - depending who was winning the war.

It is a pretty typical fort, but the view of Grenada was even better than at Fort George. We could see Carenage and over to where we are staying - the Caribbean and the Atlantic from one vantage point!

From the Forts, we headed northeast towards St.David, and stopped at De la Grenada, where the famous Nutmeg products are produced. Not only jam and jelly, but syrup and liquor as well. We got to see the manufacturing floor and taste the products. It was very interesting - and tasty too!

Next, we headed towards Marquis, which is the arts area of the Grenada. Somehow we didn't find the Marquis Art Centre, where there are artisans. We will have to go back again:) From Marquis, we headed to Battle Hill, which although some fierce battles were fought there in the 1700's, has a more peaceful feeling now. There is a Catholic Church there, as well as a shrine to the Lady of Fatima - and each year the faithful from Grenville make a pilgrimage to the shrine. I thought the church itself was very interesting - other than cornerstones and a roof, the walls were lattice - so you could see the whole church just standing outside. It would be nice and cool in there!

From Battle Hill, we headed north to Grenville, where we turned west back towards St.George. We stopped at the Spice Basket Cultural Centre to see if the Cricket Museum was open  - and were able to tour the museum. It had a great display on Cricket, and lots of information on the Island's history - both of land and people.

While at the Spice Basket Cultural Centre, we met up with Leah - a member of the Royal Grenada Police. We met her last week and she invited us to attend a community event this coming Sunday. It is part of a community policing project she is in charge of - and part of the project is providing hampers to some of the seniors in Happy Hill. We picked up a few things to help out - and Leah lives in the area - so it was easy to drop our contribution off. Tomorrow we are meeting with Leah in the evening to sample Sorrel juice, which she makes and wanted us to try. Grenadians are very generous and we learned early on it is considered rude to turn down the offer of fruits, vegies or traditional food - we really don't want to be rude!

From there, we headed back towards Grand Anse and decided to stop at the beach and watch the sunset. It was very pretty tonight - a good end to a full day!

Views from the beach chair....

Back to Morne Rouge today - we did go to Grooms and Pin Gin Beaches earlier - but very rough water today - and not too much beach to enjoy.

We assumed our positions - beach chairs in recline position, sunscreen on, cold drinks in the sand, book to read - what more could we want?

Thought you might like to see the 'views from the beach chairs' today.

After the beach, we headed back to our home away from home, and enjoyed dinner - and the view - on the deck. Just a slight breeze - and no goats bleating tonight!

Another relaxing day...

Saturday, many shops and attractions close early. So we planned a beach day and a little shopping - apparently the fridge was getting a little bare!

We stopped at a local farmers roadside stand to pick up some fruits and vegies. We got almost everything we needed - including oranges and watermelon.

From there, we headed back to Morne Rouge - which I think has become our favorite beach. There are beach chairs to rent, bathrooms close by, ocean is calm, lots of beach, great little snackette and very few people - except as we found out - on the weekends. It was okay though - aside from a group of university students well on their way to a weekend of fun, for the most part, it was a few tourists and lots of local families.

We both really like how the Grenadians feel comfortable in sharing the beaches with visitors. In Cuba - we never saw that - and we have had a chance to talk to locals and interact with them. And as for vendors - I think we saw three the whole day - usually they are on Grand Anse - waiting for the cruise ship tourists! And the vendors are very polite - a simple 'no thank you' and they carry on.

After another tiring day on the beach, we headed back to Grand Anse to pick up a few more items - milk, eggs, etc. It is interesting that milk only comes in once or twice a week - and several times, there has been no milk in the stores. However, the shelves are filled with powdered milk and evaporated milk - for those of you who can stomach that - not me!!

We headed back to the apartment to put the groceries away and clean up - then headed into Grand Anse for a walk on the beach - it was a full moon tonight. It was so beautiful - the waves glowing in the moonlight, silhouettes of palm trees against the moon - we thought of Megan and how she would love to take some night shots with her new baby! 

We walked down the beach - then found a little restaurant. The tables were right on the beach - waves about 2 feet from our table, lanterns on the table, nice music (pop ballads from the 70's & 80's).We had a nice dinner -  then headed back down the beach. There were a few other people taking advantage of the moonlight - locals and visitors - it was really beautiful.

Another Visit to Fish Friday!

We went to Gouyave again to take in Fish Friday and stopped in for a visit with Lester.

Fish Friday was just getting underway - met some other Canadians - and from the West! There was a band setting up, so we headed over to Lester's for Barry's Friday Night Cheese Burger. Lester didn't think it was right that I wasn't eating, so surprised me with the best piece of fish I think I have ever had (or at least a close second to the Halibut I had at the little restaurant in Genoa Bay). It was right out of the pan - juicy, hot with a hint of citrus - and turned out to be Mahi Mahi. I am still drooling thinking about it this morning.

After that snack and visit, we went back to where the band had set up. It was a community steel band from Florida (Grenada, West Indies - not USA).

   

They were so good - and really enjoyed them - especially the girls that were playing the 6 piece drums! I managed to get some video from the camera - excuse the filming - apparently you aren't supposed to be dancing while filming. Next time Barry can do it:)

Enjoy the video:)

North Island Circle Tour

Today we decided to check out Annandale Waterfalls and Grand Etang National Forest. 

We headed northwest from Woburn and then east from St.Georges. It is a narrow, winding road - but in good condition - just watch out for the buses!!

The waterfalls are very pretty - and there is a tropical garden as well. Our guide took us through the garden and to the waterfalls, where we watched some local young men jump off the top of the falls.

From the falls, we made our way to Grand Etang Forest and Grand Etang Lake.  The visitor centre is very pretty and has history of the area. The lake is more like our Otter Lake than Okanagan Lake, and due to the heavy rainfall in the last few days, the trail around the lake was not accessible.

Grand Etang is a bird sanctuary and forest reserve with miles of hiking trails, lookouts, and fishing streams, and home to the Mona Monkey. Unfortunately, like the elusive Grenada Dove, the Mona Monkeys were no were to be seen when we visited.  Grand Étang Lake is an expanse of water that fills the crater of an extinct volcano 1,740 feet above sea level. Although legend has it the lake is bottomless, maximum soundings are recorded at 18 feet.
 
From Grand Etang, we headed east to Grenville, then north to Pearl. Pearl has important historical significance as it is the site of the first airport in Grenada. It was used until 1984, and now serves several purposes - it is used as a roadway linking Upper and Lower Pearl; on Sundays, it a race track (Barry says it would be a great demo track); locals use the airstrip and surrounding area to graze their cattle and goats. Talk about a multi-purpose facility!

The wreckage of a Soviet and a Chinese plane are also located in Pearl, a reminder of the 1983 conflict - or Revolution as Grenadians refer to it.

Next stop, River Antoine Rum Distillery. This is the oldest distillery on the Island, and is the only Organic distillery. The tour was very good - showed us all the steps from crushing the sugar cane right down to testing for quality - and I tried two different rum punches - both very good. Unfortunately, you can only buy this rum on the Island - as they sell it all to locals and visitors. I guess I will have to bring home a bottle to let you taste it:)

From here, we were pretty much done with tours for the day, but decided to follow the sun and take a scenie route back to Woburn. From River Antoine, we headed north to Sauteurs stopping at Conference Bay, Bathways Beach and Levera Beach on the way. We also took a break in Sauteurs at their beach before heading south towards Gouyave and then to St.George's and Woburn. It was a long day - but so much to see!

Conference Beach aka Conch Shell Beach!